Kanatal: The heaven on Earth

A hill station in Uttarakhand, Kanatal serves as one of the gateways to the Himalayas.

When you think of heaven, your mind pops up all things white. Perhaps angels decked up in white sparkling gowns, floating over a bed of clouds. Whatever your idea of heaven is, I am sure it is close to something dreamy, peaceful, and mystical.

Well, I recently stumbled upon heaven on Earth, and it was all of the three. There was a bed of clouds floating in the air as I stood a few feet above it, flowing between the snow-capped Himalayan mountain ranges like a river. And there were the angels too — in the form of dogs. I even befriended two of them, Sheru, a puppy, and Bozo (I took the liberty of naming the latter after my first dog).

This heaven has a name — Kanatal — and it stands at 8,500 ft above sea level in the Tehri district of Uttarakhand, also known as the land of Gods. No wonder then that I stumbled upon what looked like an idea of heaven. The town is one of the closest places to the Himalayan mountain range.

Kanatal, Uttarakhand

If ever you find yourself here, the best way to truly soak in this experience is by staying at Terraces — a boutique resort situated in this small village — the road to which is equally pleasant and offers a surreal experience in itself.

Situated 78 km from the state capital, Dehradun, one can reach here via a road trip. The journey leading to the village falls amid forests draped in Pine trees, revealing the different types that exist as you go higher in altitude. You will be greeted with the sight of Langurs either jumping from one tree branch to another or just enjoying their solitude. Apart from the different species of flora and fauna, another thing you will come across is a must-do when en route the hills — the many stalls of Maggie and tea, also popularly called the Maggie Point in the tourist lingo.

Holding the hot, freshly cooked bowl of Maggie, with masala, garnishes, and some love from the hills sprinkled over, it tastes nothing like what a Maggie would if you were to eat it from the four walls of your bedroom in the city. There is a magic of a kind, a special recipe perhaps, that makes this meal taste twice as delicious and fulfilling when you eat it amid the cold, chilly atmosphere, sitting at an elevation of over a few thousand meters.

Hardly some kilometers before the destination, you will be welcomed with open arms by the Himalayan mountain ranges — a sight that will prompt you to roll down your windows, get off your vehicle and take selfies in at least ten different angles (yeah, I did that. Probably took more than 10). But there will be enough of the picturesque view to admire, enough for it to get etched in your heart forever.

View from the forest trail

There is not much in the town to explore apart from the scenic beauty it has to offer, which is the selling point. It is thus the perfect weekend getaway if you are looking to leave the chaos behind and embrace silence and peace. And what a better way to cherish this than the company of nature and all its wonders. The entrance of the resort is enough to seal the deal. The entire property offers the best view one could get while in Kanatal. It overlooks the mountain ranges — close enough for you to spot the shapes that gave the peaks their names. Moreover, it is not just the white-capped mountains that will leave you stunned, but also the many different colors of nature screaming against the backdrop.

The pathway to our guest-room at Terraces, Kanatal

The property is home to a homegrown vegetable garden and a wide range of flowers available in the many shades of pink, purple, yellow, orange, white, and red. The rooms come with a fireplace, basic amenities, a welcoming and sophisticated decor, and a bed that lures you to jump on and snuggle inside. And then, of course, there lies the unbeatable view. During the day, you can watch the great Himalayas from your guest room window and enjoy the evening tea as the sun rays reflect on the snow. While during the night it is almost as if the mountains were never there in the first place, the darkness and smog hiding nature’s most splendid forms of beauty.

But as the sun rises the next morning, one has the luxury to wake up to the most scenic sight they will ever witness, the one described above, that of heaven. The mountain ranges are back, just like they never left or disappeared, but this time they bring with them a sea of clouds — a magnificent view.

View from the nature walk

Even if you don’t have an itinerary, the resort takes care of it with a host of activities it has in store. There is a full-fledged gym, a spa, and a glass room overlooking some green vegetation for yoga enthusiasts. The activities include a hike called the 'nature walk' — a forest trail — yoga sessions during early mornings, and live music at night with bonfire, a few drinks, and some mouth-savoring snacks. The place is full of spots making it almost difficult to decide where to sit and enjoy your meal as each corner or eatery inside the property offers a charming view and some delightful treats for your taste buds.

There are innumerable ways one can spend their Saturday mornings but how often is it that you wake up to a heavenly view, have the option of exploring more of nature, basking under the sun in all its glory, and just embracing some peace as you add more days to your life by taking in one of the purest air? And so I did what you should do too if ever you were to find yourself in this place. Take that nature’s walk!

The ‘nature walk’: Inside the forest

It is a guided hike that lasts for two hours and if you are someone who pays heed to the wild, then trust this to be the call of nature. It truly is. The road to the forest is filled with Apple Orchards, another thing the village is famous for. The guide will help you identify the variety of the flora species that Kanatal is home to.

Once you reach the forest, the vibe changes. You will find yourself surrounded by Deodar trees, some standing tall over 120 feet and dating back to over a hundred years. The silence in the forest can be eerie yet full of life at the same time. You can pause and listen to nature’s melody play as the background score with the chorus of the different birds chirping along. Some singing, some calling their lover, some feeding the nestlings. On our way, we also met the angels — Sheru and Bozo.

Fun story, Bozo was a guard dog at a local’s house that was situated atop the hills, the road to which was through the forest trails. This is common anywhere up in the mountain regions. Bozo saw us from afar, came galloping, and gave us company throughout the rest of our hike. He was like an addition to the guide, having known the tracks like the back of his hands (in this case, paws) and alerting us at the faintest of sound coming from behind a bush. He was an angel indeed. Besides, dogs are the purest forms of living creations. On this trip, Bozo was a guide, a protector, and a friend, one I had to leave behind but cannot wait to be reunited with if ever the chance comes.

view of the snow-capped Himalayan mountain rage

During the descend you will also come across a staycation cottage. This is where I met Sheru and also befriended his (and the cottage’s) caretaker, Anita, a local who hails from Nepal. Anita and I even conversed a little in Nepali and her eyes lit up as I asked her: “Timīlā'ī kastō cha," meaning “How are you?” Anita, a young girl, told me she would love to see me again and that I must come again to visit Sheru and her.

Anita and Sheru from the staycation home

After taking a few pictures and exchanging some words and hugs, I embarked on the journey back to the resort. Bozo dropped me till we reached the exit point of the forest and even beyond. It was hard to bid him goodbye. I am aware that domesticated Pahadi dogs are friendly by nature yet there was something special about Bozo.

After a hike like that, one is left with an overwhelming feeling, a sense of contentment, and a lot of gratitude but mostly starving. And so I walked back to relish the appetizing food that was laid out for me. My family and I chose to savor our meal outdoors against the spectacular view, guessing all the mountain peaks that our guide introduced us to a few hours back. From croissants to doughnuts, a fresh pomegranate juice, sandwiches, and some bites from the South Indian cuisine — we were treated to a wholesome, hearty breakfast. That with the service and hospitality we received during our meal and throughout our stay was very warm, congenial, and worth spending.

But as all good things must come to an end, I too had to leave but Kanatal, and my stay here has left me with a feeling that I cannot quite put into words. Just like the pictures will never do justice to what the scene looked like in reality. But it left me with a heart full of love, my mind full of tranquility, and my spirit with the quest to explore more.

If you ever visit Kanatal, do take that hike up the forest. And if you are lucky, perhaps this time around, you will be accompanied by the full-grown Sheru.

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(All pictures belong to the author)